Forward: This report is just a little late but had to try. This will be my first attempt at posting a trip report. I have read and enjoyed many of your reports in the past and have been impressed and a bit intimidated by the beautiful writing style many of you possess. I will just try to relay what a fun and inspiring trip 2 guys from Texas had on there second excursion into Quetico Park.
Travel Day 1 September 12, 2007. The two lads, Chuck and Roast, left Dallas early this day driving to a hotel just north of St. Paul and stayed the night. It was a nice community called White Bear Lake. Roast had driven the 4 hours up from Houston the night before for the departure from Chuck’s house in Dallas. It was a long drive but the excitement was more than enough to keep both motivated. Of course, they stopped by Cabalas in Wanotona, MN to pickup some last second items. Roast had not quite finished with his outfitting…. as usual.
Travel Day 2 September 13, 2007. After a good night sleep and breakfast the two pushed on to Voyageur Outfitters on the Gun Flint Trail. It should be mentioned here that the drive up what is called the North Shore of Lake Superior is beautiful. I need to get the wife up here. On the previous Q trip in 2003 the two lads roughed it at Gunflint Lodge Outfitters with its two restaurants, bar and fully furnished cabins. Gunflint resort finely accommodated the two gentlemen. They chose Gunflint randomly from the Canoe Country website because of the logo. Wanting to try a different outfitter on this 2007 trip, for no special reason, they selected Voyageur Canoe Outfitters because of the descriptive name. Upon arrival at Voyageur initially the two were disappointed by the grounds and accommodations. Where was the bar and steakhouse provided at Gunflint Lodge. But upon settling in and getting a lay of the land and meeting Sue and Mike both quickly became big fans of Voyageur Outfitters. Great people and great accommodations.
Canoe Day 1 September 14, 2007. Finally the morning of the long awaited trip had arrived along with a stiff cold wind and snow flurries. No problem, they had the necessary gear and were ready for anything. They were Texans, right? Not so fast. Sue started the “quisi newbys” out before the trip with an all you can eat pancake and sausage breakfast. Little did our two excited voyageurs know how important this warm food was going to serve them on this weather filled day. Voyageur Canoe Outfitters was very helpful in personalizing the canoe with a 20 something foot boat. Deep and wide is what the lads requested and Mike accommodated nicely. After questioning Chuck’s canoe request over the phone he quickly understood the request when the two arrived at the resort. Both of our hearty voyageurs are 6’5” and run 275lbs and 255lbs plus gear. The two man Minnesota from the first trip in 2003 was totally inadequate for the two heavy’s and gear. Just before they started loading the tow boat with way to much gear Roast suggested that they slip on rain gear as he remembered that both got a little bit of spray on the tow 4 years ago to hook island. This single decision remains one of the best of the entire trip and vindicates Roast form forgetting supplies or any other miss step he might make for the entire trip. He is even absolved from breaking the tip of Chuck’s backup fishing rod. It is suggested here that all tow rides be made in rain gear. Our hearty voyageurs would experience much more that a “spray” on this tow ride. Just as Adam, the tow driver, was pushing away from the dock Sue came running toward the three waving. She had just received a radio message from Janis requesting that the next party that Voyageur towed out make a delivery, as Janis put it “bring the Cow”. Janis, as most of you know, has been the Cache Bay Ranger for about 15 years. Come to learn she had been out of milk for 2 weeks and her coffee was lacking this precious additive. It was latter learned that Janis gets most of her necessities and mail in this manner through Voyageur and her son, Leaf, was working part time for Voyageur. So now the group was off with more gear than should be allowed and a gallon of milk riding between Chuck’s size 13’s.
The Tow. “The seas were angry that day my friends”, to quote George in an old Seinfeld episode. The waves crashed over the front the tow boat every other time the boat slapped the next oncoming wave. The two intrepid voyageurs took a pounding that can only be compared to jumping off the roof of a house and landing on your bum about 500 times. A short time into the tow the three boaters were soaked from head to toe. Snow, sleet, rain and waves hammered the two Texans as Adam, the trusty navigator, pressed on through the crashing waves and various forms of precipitation. Upon arriving at Hook Island the two had been thoroughly pounded into submission. If not for the last second decision to wear the rain gear Chuck and Roast may have been ready to return to Texas without taking so much as a J stroke. The marinade and tenderized trio were met at Hook Island by a couple of travelers that had been in Quetico Park for 13 days. The couple watched as the three staggered out of the boat and stumbled to shore. After shaking off the beating the canoe was unloaded along with the gallon of milk, which should have been butter at this point. The gallon of milk got a few odd looks and some questions from the waiting party but the two travelers were extremely proud to have been chosen to deliver to Janis. The lady in the waiting group seemed a bit jealous that she was not chosen to deliver to the Ranger.
Once our two voyageurs shook off the pounding the canoe was loaded and the beautiful brand new four seater Canoe was off to the ranger station with the Milk and a numbness from the tow ride that would hang on for a few more hours.
As they paddled toward the ranger station through some stiff winds, wave and stinging rain Chuck remember the girl he had spoken to by phone at the Quetico park office a few weeks earlier. She had said that the ranger would not be on duty that late in September. The two were happy to learn Janis was in and would be available for up to date pointers and the other great information she is always happy to provide. Boy, did those neoprene gloves feel good today.
ARRIVING AT THE RANGER STATION: The Milk has arrived!!!
As has already been established the waves were big and the wind was strong but the two voyageurs were up to the task. With Sleet bouncing off their faces and heads low they willed the 20 something foot canoe to the ranger station in Cache Bay. After bring joy with the delivery of the “Cow”, they were informed that all travel had been suspended to Hook Island and the Ranger Station due to the weather. Another pair of travelers had cut there trip short only staying part of the day, and Janis was allowing the tow to come all the way to the Ranger’s Island to pick them up. Now wait a minute. Our two voyageurs had just paddled from Hook Island in the high seas and snow, sleet and rain and the next tow came all the way out to the Ranger Station? They must have known our two travelers weren’t from their neck of the woods. Chuck and Roast just can’t get any respect. After shaking off the cold and getting into the Rangers office fees were paid, directions and trip plans were discussed and they declined an offer to purchase a small orange plastic shovel designed for “personal use”. Not because Roast didn’t want to take it as he did everything else but the two were already packed to the hilt. There was no room for a little shovel or anything else for that matter. They could have left the kitchen sink with the Ranger to make room but Roast was afraid he may need it.
Mr Roast checking to see that he has enough stuff……………
Janis coached the two on how to move from island to island in the strong wind and high waves to reach Silver Falls. Her instructions were very helpful in order to avoid some of the epic waves that caused her to halt traffic. OK. Now there seems to be a pattern here. No more tows to Cache Bay today because of the weather but Chuck and Roast are instructed on how to paddle into the teeth of the storm……..? So they did. (The milk must have been badly needed.) Upon returning 7 days later it was learned from Mike that Janis had made 3 rescues this day. Apparently one of the parties was a group of 8 that had lashed their canoes together in pairs with long poles in a pontoon fashion with ice chests, full size butane bottles and burners for a base camping trip at America Point. Wonder why they sunk?
THE BATTLE TO SILVER FALLS AND POINTS NORTH: Just as Janis had instructed the two skirted the south side of the 2 islands east of the Ranger Station avoiding as much wave and wind as possible making it to the far east shoreline of Cache Bay. The two hugged the shoreline until reaching the narrows heading to Silver Falls and arrived at the landing safely. Most discussions on this board do not mention much about this portage, but, let it be said that Sue’s breakfast at Voyageur Outfitters was coming in very handy as the two unloaded and started the long and trying Silver Falls portage. After a pounding tow, battling waves and sleet/snow/drizzle (snizzle) our two travelers completed this up and down portage very slowly. After all it wasn’t a race.
Landing south end of Silver Falls Portage. Mr Roast hoisting the pack…
Moving on past the portage the cold and sleet still bounced off the smiling faces of the two paddlers. It was at that moment that Chuck realized that he was not setting behind his desk doing whatever one does behind a desk and sleet was bouncing off his face. He was ALIVE! That feeling was a true treasure of the trip and a feeling that Chuck will crave after tasting it just once. The trip, the park, the weather, the portage, the canoe, the paddle the eagles, the sky…….It lets you know you are alive. Bring it on Quetico……………
CAMP 1: Due to the late start by the two getting to the tow, due to Roast not being fully packed the night before, not to mention the big wave and wind and the long meeting with Janis the two made camp on the island just south of Deadman Portage.
Wet night on first night. Bottle leaning against log is almost empty. Mr. Roast just can’t conserve…
Not as far as was planned but who cares. They were out. They had made the park after much planning and a 22 hour drive. It’s all good. Chuck whipped up a quick dinner of Mac and Cheese. This was a quick dinner as the two were ready to relax at camp. Chuck’ Exponent double and single burner stoves with Black Lite pans were not even tested with this meal but they were sure to see some work on this 7 day, 6 night trip They setup camp by picking tent sites that looked like they would stay dry and hit the sleeping bags.
Trying to dry out
Packed up and ready to move on…..
A bit chilly this morning………
That first night the gear was put to a test as a thunderstorm brought 4 inches of rain as they later learned. Chuck was awaken at 2AM by heavy rain, thunder and lighting but his Marmot Swallow tent was up to the task and again that feeling came over him. He was alive and feeling. It took coming to a place like this and these harsh weather experiences for a desk jockey to first realize that he is “feeling” and then what is “the feeling”. He was alive and feeling stuff. Like cold, rain, pain, fun, joy and even maybe a “fierce joy”. It was probable said best in the following passage which was plucked from this board….
And so it must be for all of us who have known the back country. No little sanctuaries along the fringes of civilization ever quite suffice. We must know the wild and all it entails, the use of a tumpline on the portages, the desperate battling on stormy lakes, the danger and roar of rapids and falls. We must know hunger and thirst and privation and the companionship of men on the out trails of the world, for all these things are inseparable. When after days or weeks of travel we modern voyageurs find ourselves on a glaciated point a hundred or a thousand miles from any town and stand there gazing down the length of some unnamed lake listening to the wild calling of the loons and watching the island floating in the sunset, there is a fierce joy in our hearts.
This passage by Mr Olsen perfectly describes how the two travelers and many of you have felt experiencing what nature has to offer.
Canoe Day 2 & 3 September 15 & 16, 2007: The next morning things were very wet. The tents did there job. The drizzle continued and the eggs and bacon that were planned for breakfast would be on hold as they huddled under the Kelty 9’ tarp for some very delicious oat meal. As we all know everything taste good on the trail. The two slowly packed camp trying to keep the gear as dry as possible. The 7128 cubic inch boundary packs from Cabelas did a fantastic job of keeping gear dry and portaged with ease. If it did not rain another drop during this trip some items would still be wet on the last day. The two voyageurs loaded the canoe and were off to Deadman portage and the beautiful Falls Chain. The two paddled to the portage but seemed to be unable to spot the starting point. After paddling in and out of the cove and much discussion the trail was spotted and the canoe was landed. Chuck got out and confirmed the trail and the two started the double portage. Paddling out of the bay to the north a course was set for the falls. As they got closer they started to hear the roar of water. They landed uneventfully and negotiated the three portages and landed at the campsite just next to Bald Rock Falls.
Bald Rock Falls and a thumb!!!!!!!!
This is a great site with an easy path to the base of the falls which was great for gathering water, washing dishes and fishing. A few pike were on the line in short order and Chuck’s first Walleye. Now that would be dinner. Camp was set and the two settled in for a great two nights at this beautiful location.
Landing at the Bald Rock Falls campsite.
On the second day, as the two were returning from fishing the falls, Roast spotted something moving below the falls near a pool were the lads had 2 nice walleye on a stringer. They had been caught that morning, with lunch written all over them. Apparently eagles can read too. Now this stringer was fashioned out of a 20 foot piece of parachute cord tied to a large rock. As the two landed the canoe Chuck jumped from the craft and made a dash for the stringer and his lunch. The movement Roast spotted was a Walleye loving Eagle. Chuck had not been that close to a wild hungry Eagle before. The size was intimidating and the beautiful brown color was unforgettable. As the Walleye thief grabbed one of the wide eyed fish the eagle heard and saw Chuck running in his direction. The massive and strong predatory bird started off with the lad’s lunch in his grasp but as he got about 19 ½ feet above the ground the line tightened and snapped the fish from his claws. The Eagle did a complete back flip with a look on his face of complete surprise and confusion. The 2 fish dropped into the water remaining attached to the stringer and the Eagle flew to a tree on the burned out east side of the river and tried to gather himself. Meanwhile Chuck gathered the stunned fish and paddled to a rock island just off the campsite and cleaned the fish leaving the filleted fish bodies exposed on the rock as Janis had instructed. About the time they had returned to camp with fish ready to cook Roast noticed the Eagle coming in low and fast across the water and in one motion he had the remains of both fish in his claws and was off to perched in the very top of a distant tree to enjoy what was surly a very confusing but substantial lunch.
Walleye loving eagle!!!!!!!!!
Walleye loving eagle!!!!!!!!!
Lets eat!!!!!!
Fried fish MMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!
This was an exciting encounter with nature along with a lesson in survival of the fittest. The boys fried up the fish and all was right. The two learned that when you are out like this you are just another creature looking for food and if you don’t watch out something will eat it before you do. Beautiful Eagle. Wish a picture would have been possible. These words cannot describe the beauty of that eagle in such a close proximity with the display of speed and grace.
The falls from camp
The falls from a boat
Looking west from the falls camp
Splice the next 3 photos together
Mr Roast… Pissed about something!!!!!!!!
After two days of resting and playing at the falls the next morning they would move to McEwen to catch a Trout.
Day 4 September 14, 2007: Camp was packed, the canoe was loaded and the course was set for McEwen Lake.
Lets Goooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!
This morning the two had the eggs and bacon tacos with cheese and salsa. Bringing along precooked bacon and fresh eggs this time of year seemed to work fine for our hungry guys. As they paddled away the roaring sound of the falls became more and more faint. They had not realized how loud the roar of the falls was until they heard the quite of Wet Lake. The wind was starting to pick backup today and the clouds were building to the North West. Could be a wet night.
Paddling Wet Lake
Our two voyageurs, being avid canoe country board watchers headed straight to the famous Hilton campsite. Nice big site with room to spread out. But on this day the location was too exposed with the cold damp wind and weather looming. The decision was made to move to the site to the east in a cove that was protected from the wind.
McEwen campsite
This was a great site on the water with a trail leading to an even larger site back in the trees. Being just the two of them they setup on the waterfront site and started fishing. Caught many smallies but the trout eluded the two. No worries, dinner was ready in know time with foil package chicken, mashed potatoes and gravy along with Chucks famous peach upside down cake. Now this is a recipe created by Rockhound, a very experienced paddler with many canoe trips under his belt. You start by spreading brown sugar in the bottom of your backpackers oven pan. Arrange peach wedges on the sugar. Mix a white cake mix using the peach juice as the liquid and instant milk and pour over the peaches. Bake for 25 minutes. Turnout with the peaches on top and get the coffee ready. Saved some for breakfast. Camp chores were performed and the two tired but happy travelers were ready to call it a night. That evening, as Chuck and Roast sipped bourbon, a nightly ritual, they looked west across McEwen Lake and a since of solitude and worthiness came over them. They were in an area that in this time of year few people travel. But they were here in this magical place as friends for some 35 years. From 7th grade through college, marriages, raising kids, lose of parents and finally to this point with 50 years experience on this earth. This was the ultimate birthday party. It is what everyone is looking for from a trip such as this, solitude, time away from cell phones, bosses, insurance, taxes, the price of oil, and the world. This type of experience gives one the opportunity to live life at its basic terms. Shelter, water, food. Simplified. That is enough. They did not realize how badly they both need this time.
Day 5 September 15, 2007: The pouring rain of the first night seemed like a sprinkle compared to the cold windy storm that blew through that night. Both rode the major thunder and lighting storm out in dry fashion and awoke the next morning to have biscuits and gravy, coffee and you guessed it a little peach upside-down cake. Now, with full tanks our two voyageurs had to start thanking about getting in position for a 10AM pickup at Hook Island in 2 days which was to include a stop by the pictographs on Cache Bay. Camp was broken down and packed and the two were off. The water this day was like glass after the storm the night before. It was quite and all you could hear was the sound of the paddles dipping the water and Roast occasionally growling at Chuck because he was paddling to fast or to slow or to something. The guys stopped at Bald Rock Falls for a lunch of Mountain House Teriyaki Chicken with peanut sauce that was very good and filling. Not a big fan of the freeze dried dinners but they were a convenient hot shore lunch and very tasty. With the Falls Chain ahead of them the two paddled and portaged through the beautiful falls to the first island campsite they encountered north of Deadman Portage. This seemed like a long paddle but the two were excited to check out a new campsite and get setup.
Sag camp 4
The island site was large and nice. Caught a pike or two and then started dinner. Tonight would be pasta, marinara sauce, Italian sausage and fresh baked Italian bread in the backpacker’s oven. Since receiving the oven from Rockhound as a gift a few months before the trip Chuck had been baking at home in practice for this trip and it was working very nicely. No rain this night and the two fell asleep dreaming of big pike and the excitement of making the Pictographs the next day.
Day 6 September 16, 2007: The next morning the two eagerly packed up camp after a breakfast of bacon and cheese grits with eggs and coffee. While paddling to the portage it became very apparent to the duo that things did not look the same as it did coming out 5 days ago. It was a cold and windy day again which hampered the progress. After going in circles in a cove just west of the portage the two finally got their bearings and were unloading at the portage after losing some valuable time. As the two began their first trip across the portage they heard a rumbling just out of sight ahead of them on the trail then the crash of limbs branches and small trees. The ground seemed to vibrate as the pounding moved in a westerly direction perpendicular to the trail. They could both hear branches and limbs scraping and clanging off antlers. Now they were unclear how to describe the sound that branches make as they are bouncing off of antlers of a very large moose but whether or not you have heard it the sound is unmistakable and very exciting. They had just HEARD their first Moose! Now seeing one would have been a little better, granted. But this was close! There was energy in the enthusiastic Paddler’s steps as they completed what is now known as the Moose portage. Wildlife was encountered! As they relived the sounds of their close brush with what was by now a 2000 lbs Bull Moose with a Boon and Crockett rack they triumphantly paddled on. Remember its all good when in a canoe. Next up was the always fun and old favorite of or intrepid Voyageur, Silver Falls Portage. On the way to Silver Falls the two stopped for some lunch and to stretch there legs. They stopped at a nice but exposed site just north of the falls for some Power bars, jerky and MRE BP&J with tortillas and they we off to Silver Falls. There was a slight hesitation by both as they unloaded the canoe while contemplating the impending pain. Packs and Canoes were hoisted and the move was executed with ease. This is really a beautiful portage.
They took special care on the walk back with no load to pause and enjoy the falls and the woods. Chuck even took timeout to wet a hook below the falls as his ole buddy Rockhound had suggested. Now the two were off with great excitement in search of the elusive Cache Bay pictographs. As they paddled away from Silver Falls Chuck spotted an eagle flying overhead in the same direction. Roast surmised it was the Walleye thief escorting them out of his territory. Who ever he was, it was a beautiful sight.
As the two cleared the narrows and into Cache Bay the wind and cold seemed to increase substantially. With heads low and reaching for each stroke the two battled to the drag-over portage leading from Cache Bay to the Pictograph cove. Some fatigue was being felt but with the thought of the pictos just ahead the two could not stop. As they hugged the cliffs searching for the paintings the two thought they were not going to find them, then Roast spotted the red rocks from a distance. They quickly paddled in for a closer look. To view these 900 to 1000 year old markings was exciting.
The markings to the entrance of this secluded cove and campsite gave both a feeling of wonder. Had the Indians camped in this spot? Did the pictos actually reflect the number of people that lived in this area? The mind can really wonder after a few days. What a great feeling. The two paddled just a short distance to the campsite in the picto cove. What a great campsite. They caught pike from the shore while a beaver slapped his tail a few times just to lets them know they were not alone in this cove with the feel of Indian spirits. This was also the evening that the two heard their first Loon on the trip. Seemed the first trip in early September they had heard the Loons every day. Love the lonesome sound of the Loon. Camp was setup. The tent pad areas on this site are mainly roots and rocks. Tough site but with the North Face 20 degree long size mummy bag and Thermarest 2” self-inflating pad it would be a good nights sleep. A fire was started and the two tried to dry some things that had been wet from the first nights rain and the tow. With the cold damp wind not letting up the drying process was not happening.
Dinner was Stew and hot Corn Bread followed by a chocolate chip cookie about the size of the backpackers oven pan. The fire was stoked up and the two enjoyed a little bourbon on a cool last night of their second trip of a lifetime.
Day 7 September 17, 2007 This morning was cool but at least dry. Looked like rain but the clouds were holding. The morning was started with Blueberry Muffins and Coffee. Boy, can that backpacker oven bake. 5 bottles of fuel were packed but only 3 were used. Not bad considering the amount of baking. Camp was packed in preparation of a 10AM pickup at Hook Island. The timing was good and the two somewhat tired voyageurs paddled out of the Picto cove. As they went by the Ranger Station all was quite. Janis had told the two she would be gone for the winter to her home in Atikokan when they returned. She mentioned the time and day that the plane was scheduled to pick her up but neither noticed a plane in the area during there voyage. The place looked closed down with the flags not flying and no travelers checking in. As they began to close in on Hook Island Chuck began to feel tightness in the middle of his back. This told him the trip was just long enough. The two reached the pickup point just 10 minutes before a smiling Adam, the trusty tow boat driver, arrived from Voyageur Outfitters to speed our two seasoned explorers back to the welcomed site of the bath house at Voyageur. In a short time they had cleaned up and settled up with Mike and were on their way back to the world and all it entails.
First stop was Grand Marais for cheese burgers and, as referred to on this board, “platys”. Hope that means brewski.
Chuck’s desk was waiting on him as he returned to Dallas. It was time to drill a few more oil wells and buy a few more oil and gas leases. Roast was back in Houston building homes. They will be back. When they have had too much of the world again they will return to know they are alive and feel that fierce joy.
